Sunday, August 12, 2012
Sunday, May 13, 2012
Cyno Possible Bloat
Cyno subdom male wasn't eating as of Friday night 5/11. Didn't appear to eat Saturday morning. Appeared to eat Saturday night. Did not eat Sunday morning, or show interest in food. Sunday evening, two cynos (including prior subdominant male) spitting food. Other spitting fish possibly female. Dosed 4g Metro and 20 Tbs Epsom.
ECC Spring Auction Sales
9 Demasoni
9 Demasoni
9 Demasoni
9 Demasoni
4 Fuelleborni
5 Fuelleborni
5 Julies
5 Julies
3 Red Top Zebras
Yellow Lab Male
9 Demasoni
9 Demasoni
9 Demasoni
4 Fuelleborni
5 Fuelleborni
5 Julies
5 Julies
3 Red Top Zebras
Yellow Lab Male
Monday, April 9, 2012
Thursday, March 29, 2012
Just thought I would share this for anyone else doing a sump for the first
time...
Our sump is powered by Eheim 1262s, they should be putting out something like 600-700 gallons an hour depending on head loss to various things.
This is running through 12/16mm (essentially 5/8") Eheim tubing to an Eheim spray bar (pricey but nice). This winds up being pretty high pressure given the three section spray bar so I bought some extra sections intending to go to four sections.
Our basic set-up is a herbie set-up and the straight siphon had always handled all/virtually all the flow from the Eheim. After putting in the extra section I got up the next morning and was surprised that the durso/emergency drain was taking in a lot of water.
I concluded that putting in the extra spray bar setion reduced the head pressure on the Eheim pump by quite a bit and jumped up the gallons per hour over the capacity of the siphon, which I opened from perhaps 3/4 open (using a gate valve) to full open.
So I removed the extra section but the durso was still takinga lot of water. I figured something I had done had still increased overall flow as I didn't see anythign else had changed.
The durso was somewhat noisy so this was not satisfying so I decided I would t-off the return line back into the sump to reduce flow and get things back to how I like them.
So today my t-stuff shows up and I am starting to plan how to do this when I notice something funny. The wet-dry media boxes have emergency holes in their sides to let water out and in teh hole nearest the siphon return line water is just pouring out.
Why is it doing that?
So I open up the media box (something I haven't done since getting things set-up really 5+ weeks ago) and I discover...
The section of Poret foam directly under the siphone return is simply full of mud and slime that has been sucked in and that it sits high enough that it is actually interfering with flow! so the water coming out the side of hte media box can't flow down the wet-dry and that is really what caused the flow rate change in the first place - NOT the extra spray bar section. The spray bar was just a coincidence.
So I cut out the offending section of foam to give a large open area for water to enter and magically it is back to exactly where it was before this adventure started.
My mistake was ignoring the little signs that my hypothesis - i.e. spray bar reduced head pressure leadign to more flow - was incorrect.
Our sump is powered by Eheim 1262s, they should be putting out something like 600-700 gallons an hour depending on head loss to various things.
This is running through 12/16mm (essentially 5/8") Eheim tubing to an Eheim spray bar (pricey but nice). This winds up being pretty high pressure given the three section spray bar so I bought some extra sections intending to go to four sections.
Our basic set-up is a herbie set-up and the straight siphon had always handled all/virtually all the flow from the Eheim. After putting in the extra section I got up the next morning and was surprised that the durso/emergency drain was taking in a lot of water.
I concluded that putting in the extra spray bar setion reduced the head pressure on the Eheim pump by quite a bit and jumped up the gallons per hour over the capacity of the siphon, which I opened from perhaps 3/4 open (using a gate valve) to full open.
So I removed the extra section but the durso was still takinga lot of water. I figured something I had done had still increased overall flow as I didn't see anythign else had changed.
The durso was somewhat noisy so this was not satisfying so I decided I would t-off the return line back into the sump to reduce flow and get things back to how I like them.
So today my t-stuff shows up and I am starting to plan how to do this when I notice something funny. The wet-dry media boxes have emergency holes in their sides to let water out and in teh hole nearest the siphon return line water is just pouring out.
Why is it doing that?
So I open up the media box (something I haven't done since getting things set-up really 5+ weeks ago) and I discover...
The section of Poret foam directly under the siphone return is simply full of mud and slime that has been sucked in and that it sits high enough that it is actually interfering with flow! so the water coming out the side of hte media box can't flow down the wet-dry and that is really what caused the flow rate change in the first place - NOT the extra spray bar section. The spray bar was just a coincidence.
So I cut out the offending section of foam to give a large open area for water to enter and magically it is back to exactly where it was before this adventure started.
My mistake was ignoring the little signs that my hypothesis - i.e. spray bar reduced head pressure leadign to more flow - was incorrect.
Thursday, March 15, 2012
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Current sump/stand noise and future improvements
The overflows in the sump have started making noise, I think this is in the media boxes and is basically just water splashing as it comes into the top box. I put 90 degree elbows on the bottom of the bulkheads to try to get the water to spread out more evenly in the box, but I think all the stuff I put in the top media box (poret foam, bio-balls, other random crap for bacteria to colonize) has just started to accumulate enough junk in it now to be a little less free for water to flow through.
The result is that water splashes a bit in the top box making noise. I tried to fix this with a short piece of PVC with holes drilled into it, but that didn't really help. Over the weekend I think I will try a long piece-the length of the box-with lots of holes to try and let the water gently get into the media.
Alternatively, I think a trough in the bos that let's the water exit into a water filled "trough" then overflow out of that might work. Trouble is I am not quite sure what to use for that...
The Eheim 1262 pumps are somewhat variable in how much noise they make. The main noise source is vibration. Right now they are sitting on 2" thick Poret foam which helps a lot. I have some 5mm neoprene that I am going to try. I figure 20-25mm of neoprene might be quiet. As a bonus it will let the pumps sit lower in the sump making them less vulnerable to evaporation.
Finally, we need to get tops for the sumps made. I will probably get 1/4" thich glass tops, which is pretty thick but it means they are really strong and will insulate a bit better. This should help with temperature and evaporation (and maybe reduce noise even more :).
We added some 3/8" closed cell soundproofing found to the doors and sides of hte sump, which has cut down on noise some. We should get some mass loaded vinyl which I am going to use as a curtain across the open back of the sump to hopefully keep more pump and water noise in the sump. One concern is condensation inside the stand, but I think there will still be enough opening to keep that form being too serious and getting tops on the sumps will help as well.
Neoprene on its own is worse than the Poret foam. A layer of neoprene under the Poret foam may be an improvement. This seems the best. I think the goal is to "disconnect" the pumps from the tank as much as possible and the extra layer of neoprene under the foam seems to do that better. The slightly buoyant neoprene also probably helps here.
The result is that water splashes a bit in the top box making noise. I tried to fix this with a short piece of PVC with holes drilled into it, but that didn't really help. Over the weekend I think I will try a long piece-the length of the box-with lots of holes to try and let the water gently get into the media.
Alternatively, I think a trough in the bos that let's the water exit into a water filled "trough" then overflow out of that might work. Trouble is I am not quite sure what to use for that...
The Eheim 1262 pumps are somewhat variable in how much noise they make. The main noise source is vibration. Right now they are sitting on 2" thick Poret foam which helps a lot. I have some 5mm neoprene that I am going to try. I figure 20-25mm of neoprene might be quiet. As a bonus it will let the pumps sit lower in the sump making them less vulnerable to evaporation.
Finally, we need to get tops for the sumps made. I will probably get 1/4" thich glass tops, which is pretty thick but it means they are really strong and will insulate a bit better. This should help with temperature and evaporation (and maybe reduce noise even more :).
We added some 3/8" closed cell soundproofing found to the doors and sides of hte sump, which has cut down on noise some. We should get some mass loaded vinyl which I am going to use as a curtain across the open back of the sump to hopefully keep more pump and water noise in the sump. One concern is condensation inside the stand, but I think there will still be enough opening to keep that form being too serious and getting tops on the sumps will help as well.
Neoprene on its own is worse than the Poret foam. A layer of neoprene under the Poret foam may be an improvement. This seems the best. I think the goal is to "disconnect" the pumps from the tank as much as possible and the extra layer of neoprene under the foam seems to do that better. The slightly buoyant neoprene also probably helps here.
Thursday, March 1, 2012
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
110 Gallon Mbuna Setup
2.26.2012
Rinsed sand in tank
Water clarifier
2.27.2012
Full fill including sump
2.28.2012
Lengthen durso standpipe
Partial water change
Bacteria
Ammonia
3.1.2012
Water parameters same as tap water
3.4.2012
NH3 = 1ppm
NO2 > 0 ppm
3.5.2012
NH3 = 1ppm
NO2 = 0.25ppm
3.6.2012
NH3 = 1ppm
NO2 = 0.5-1ppm
3.7.2012
NH3 = 0.5ppm
NO2 > 1ppm
3.8.2012
NH3 = 0.5ppm
NO2 = 5ppm+
80% water change (tap water)
NO2 = 1-2ppm
3.9.2012
NO2 = 5ppm+
3.10.2012
NH3 = 0ppm
NO2 = 5ppm+
80% water change (tap water)
NO2 = 2ppm
3.11.2012
NO2 = 2ppm
80% water change
NO2 = 0.5-1ppm
3.12.2012
NH3 = 0ppm
NO2 = 5ish ppm
NO3 = 30-40ppm
3.13.2012
NO2 = 2-5ppm
3.14.2012
NO2 = 1ppm
Rinsed sand in tank
Water clarifier
2.27.2012
Full fill including sump
2.28.2012
Lengthen durso standpipe
Partial water change
Bacteria
Ammonia
3.1.2012
Water parameters same as tap water
3.4.2012
NH3 = 1ppm
NO2 > 0 ppm
3.5.2012
NH3 = 1ppm
NO2 = 0.25ppm
3.6.2012
NH3 = 1ppm
NO2 = 0.5-1ppm
3.7.2012
NH3 = 0.5ppm
NO2 > 1ppm
3.8.2012
NH3 = 0.5ppm
NO2 = 5ppm+
80% water change (tap water)
NO2 = 1-2ppm
3.9.2012
NO2 = 5ppm+
3.10.2012
NH3 = 0ppm
NO2 = 5ppm+
80% water change (tap water)
NO2 = 2ppm
3.11.2012
NO2 = 2ppm
80% water change
NO2 = 0.5-1ppm
3.12.2012
NH3 = 0ppm
NO2 = 5ish ppm
NO3 = 30-40ppm
3.13.2012
NO2 = 2-5ppm
3.14.2012
NO2 = 1ppm
110 Tropheus History
2.26.2012
25% water change (tap water)
Concerned about 2 fish lurking near surface, but all fish eat
2.27.2012
1 fish severely distressed in the morning, removed to hospital tank but died within 10-15 minutes
1 fish lethargic/less responsive at lunchtime, removed to hospital tank and dosed with metro
1 fish distressed in evening, removed to hospital tank
Double dose Metro main tank
2.28.2012
1 fish died in hospital tank overnight (probably the one removed evening of 2.27)
1 new fish not eating, but not lethargic enough to be caught easily to move to hospital
40% water change main tank
Double dose Metro main tank
2.29.2012
Removed 1 distressed fish to hospital tank
1.3g Metro (last of Fish Zole)
Water change and double dose Metro for hospital tank
3.1.2012
Distressed hospital fish (2.29) died during the day
Other two hospital fish mouth metro food but spit (also spit regular food)
3.2.2012
Two hospital fish ate some, spit some in a.m., ate all in evening
40% water change main tank
2tbsp Metro main tank (pure Metro)
Removed AC110
3.4.2012
40% water change main tank
2tbsp Metro main tank (pure Metro)
Water good post removal of AC110
3.10.2012
Small fish spitting food, moved to hospital tank
Two fish from hospital tank returned to main tank
One of fish returned to main tank is lurking, caught and returned to hospital tank
3.12.2012
Returned fish had lip injury, treated with Pimafix/Melafix
3.13.2012
Returned fish looking worse after work (lip and side with white fluff), added Erythromycin
Returned fish died late night
3.14.2012
Bloat hospital fish dead in the morning
3.25.2012
Beat up skinny fish, but still eating
3.26.2012 p.m.
Beat up skinny fish lethargic, no interest in food
Moved to hospital tank but abruptly got worse; dosed with Clout but died within hours
Weeklong dose of Metro for main tank
25% water change (tap water)
Concerned about 2 fish lurking near surface, but all fish eat
2.27.2012
1 fish severely distressed in the morning, removed to hospital tank but died within 10-15 minutes
1 fish lethargic/less responsive at lunchtime, removed to hospital tank and dosed with metro
1 fish distressed in evening, removed to hospital tank
Double dose Metro main tank
2.28.2012
1 fish died in hospital tank overnight (probably the one removed evening of 2.27)
1 new fish not eating, but not lethargic enough to be caught easily to move to hospital
40% water change main tank
Double dose Metro main tank
2.29.2012
Removed 1 distressed fish to hospital tank
1.3g Metro (last of Fish Zole)
Water change and double dose Metro for hospital tank
3.1.2012
Distressed hospital fish (2.29) died during the day
Other two hospital fish mouth metro food but spit (also spit regular food)
3.2.2012
Two hospital fish ate some, spit some in a.m., ate all in evening
40% water change main tank
2tbsp Metro main tank (pure Metro)
Removed AC110
3.4.2012
40% water change main tank
2tbsp Metro main tank (pure Metro)
Water good post removal of AC110
3.10.2012
Small fish spitting food, moved to hospital tank
Two fish from hospital tank returned to main tank
One of fish returned to main tank is lurking, caught and returned to hospital tank
3.12.2012
Returned fish had lip injury, treated with Pimafix/Melafix
3.13.2012
Returned fish looking worse after work (lip and side with white fluff), added Erythromycin
Returned fish died late night
3.14.2012
Bloat hospital fish dead in the morning
3.25.2012
Beat up skinny fish, but still eating
3.26.2012 p.m.
Beat up skinny fish lethargic, no interest in food
Moved to hospital tank but abruptly got worse; dosed with Clout but died within hours
Weeklong dose of Metro for main tank
Saturday, February 25, 2012
110 Tropheus Maintenance
Added 6 dwarf petricola 1in
Added AC 110 with established media
Nitrite = 0.5ppm
Changed 1/3rd water using water from 75 gallon.
Added AC 110 with established media
Nitrite = 0.5ppm
Changed 1/3rd water using water from 75 gallon.
55 Gallon History March 2011 to Present
3.12.2011
Added 6 yellow labs 3-4in, one holding
3.19.2011
Gave away Lemon, Ducky, and small lab
6.11.2011
Added 2 bristlenose pleco
10.16.2011
Changed UV sterilizer bulb
Added 6 yellow labs 3-4in, one holding
3.19.2011
Gave away Lemon, Ducky, and small lab
6.11.2011
Added 2 bristlenose pleco
10.16.2011
Changed UV sterilizer bulb
Holding Another Mother's Fry
Perhaps my favorite episode yet in fishkeeping came from a really sad one.
On 2.12.2011 we moved a holding demasoni female into our 20Long holding tank so that she could spit out her fry without having them eating in the 55 gallon tank. We also moved a holding yellow lab to the same tank with the same rationale.
The demasoni had been suffering a lot of losses in getting settled, primarily dying from bloat. The day after we moved her to the 20Long, the holding demasoni female also died. When I found her I tried to pry her mouth open, but no babies came out. It was a sad day.
A little over a week later on 2.20.2011, I was folding laundry near the quarantine tank and noticed the holding yellow lab was letting a couple of fry out of her mouth just for short periods. If I approached, she picked them back up. But at one point, I noticed that the fry she had let out looked dark in color. We had lab fry before and they definitely came out pale in color.
With a little patience, I was able to spy the next time that fry came out of her mouth -- and it was clearly a demasoni! The dying female must have spit out her fry, and the yellow lab picked them up to keep them safe.
The yellow lab ultimately spit out about 18 lab fry and 6 demasoni fry. The demasoni fry were raised in the quarantine tank and added to the 55 gallon demasoni colony on 6.5.2011.
I love how life finds a way.
On 2.12.2011 we moved a holding demasoni female into our 20Long holding tank so that she could spit out her fry without having them eating in the 55 gallon tank. We also moved a holding yellow lab to the same tank with the same rationale.
The demasoni had been suffering a lot of losses in getting settled, primarily dying from bloat. The day after we moved her to the 20Long, the holding demasoni female also died. When I found her I tried to pry her mouth open, but no babies came out. It was a sad day.
A little over a week later on 2.20.2011, I was folding laundry near the quarantine tank and noticed the holding yellow lab was letting a couple of fry out of her mouth just for short periods. If I approached, she picked them back up. But at one point, I noticed that the fry she had let out looked dark in color. We had lab fry before and they definitely came out pale in color.
With a little patience, I was able to spy the next time that fry came out of her mouth -- and it was clearly a demasoni! The dying female must have spit out her fry, and the yellow lab picked them up to keep them safe.
The yellow lab ultimately spit out about 18 lab fry and 6 demasoni fry. The demasoni fry were raised in the quarantine tank and added to the 55 gallon demasoni colony on 6.5.2011.
I love how life finds a way.
Adding and Establishing Demasoni
I'm working back through the log today, with a really happy, successful, beautiful, and constantly breeding colony of 18 of my dream fish. But it certainly took a lot of losses to get there.
We really strongly believe that the losses we had with our demasoni were due to bloat. I'm sure there was stress involved, whether from traveling, aggression, or a combination of factors; however, none of the losses we experienced were a directresult of aggression. The dead fish didn't have nipped fins or missing scaled that suggested they'd been beaten up. When we finally caught and isolated an ailing fish, we were able to really clearly observe all the textbook bloat systems.
From that time on, we dosed with Metro, and that prevented bloat from spreading to any additional demasoni. We had a couple more isolated losses quickly, presumably fish who were already deep into the stages.
We had the demasoni in the tank with yellow labs, and I was scared that if it was bloat, it would spread to them. However, the labs never showed any sign of infection and 100% survived.
After we stopped losing fish, we topped back up our numbers, and the colony has thrived wonderfully ever since.
We see many posts in the fish world from people in the early loss stages of trying to keep demasoni. We always pass on the advice on how much metro helped us. Whether it's the expense of medicating or a philosophical orientation against using various chemicals/compounds in fishkeeping, I don't know, but no one seems to believe us that using Met instantly turned our losses around. I know for my part, I wish I had known in time to save more fish.
Details after the jump.
We really strongly believe that the losses we had with our demasoni were due to bloat. I'm sure there was stress involved, whether from traveling, aggression, or a combination of factors; however, none of the losses we experienced were a directresult of aggression. The dead fish didn't have nipped fins or missing scaled that suggested they'd been beaten up. When we finally caught and isolated an ailing fish, we were able to really clearly observe all the textbook bloat systems.
From that time on, we dosed with Metro, and that prevented bloat from spreading to any additional demasoni. We had a couple more isolated losses quickly, presumably fish who were already deep into the stages.
We had the demasoni in the tank with yellow labs, and I was scared that if it was bloat, it would spread to them. However, the labs never showed any sign of infection and 100% survived.
After we stopped losing fish, we topped back up our numbers, and the colony has thrived wonderfully ever since.
We see many posts in the fish world from people in the early loss stages of trying to keep demasoni. We always pass on the advice on how much metro helped us. Whether it's the expense of medicating or a philosophical orientation against using various chemicals/compounds in fishkeeping, I don't know, but no one seems to believe us that using Met instantly turned our losses around. I know for my part, I wish I had known in time to save more fish.
Details after the jump.
55 Gallon History July - December 2010
7.26.2010
Lemon Pi first holding
8.10.2010
Bee spit fry, identified 3 free swimming fry in tank
8.12.2010
Moved Daffy to quarantine due to wasting/skinny problem
9.19.2010
3 new labs to quarantine
10.23.2010
Added 3 labs to main tank
10.29.2010
Moved peacock to 75 gallon tank
Added 3 nerite snails
12.29.2010
Moved Fins, Zebra, Valencia to 75 gallon tank
Lemon Pi first holding
8.10.2010
Bee spit fry, identified 3 free swimming fry in tank
8.12.2010
Moved Daffy to quarantine due to wasting/skinny problem
9.19.2010
3 new labs to quarantine
10.23.2010
Added 3 labs to main tank
10.29.2010
Moved peacock to 75 gallon tank
Added 3 nerite snails
12.29.2010
Moved Fins, Zebra, Valencia to 75 gallon tank
36 Bow Mbuna Cycle and History
Posting this part of our paper journal almost two years later, we have learned a lot of lessons. This is by no means how I would recommend setting a tank up; actually reading it at this point makes me feel terrible. Still, saving our first days of fishkeeping for posterity.
4.29.2010
pH = 8.2
4.30.2010
7 am: pH = 8.0-8.2
3 pm: pH = 8.2
6 pm: pH = 8.2
5.1.2010
Added 1 Red Zebra 2.5in ("Valencia")
Added 1 Red Top Zebra 2.5in ("Fins") -- labeled as Red Fin Borleyi
Added 1 Yellow Lab 2.5in ("Lemon")
More after the jump...
4.29.2010
pH = 8.2
4.30.2010
7 am: pH = 8.0-8.2
3 pm: pH = 8.2
6 pm: pH = 8.2
5.1.2010
Added 1 Red Zebra 2.5in ("Valencia")
Added 1 Red Top Zebra 2.5in ("Fins") -- labeled as Red Fin Borleyi
Added 1 Yellow Lab 2.5in ("Lemon")
More after the jump...
Ich Cure
The basic idea of all of this is that ich has a one week life cycle, cannot spread to new fish at temperatures of 86 or higher, and dies outright at 89 degrees. We were very conservative in treating because we were about to go on a week-plus vacation and wanted to make sure we eradicated the ich before we left. This solution can be implemented using only heat and water changes. It's important to monitor the level of oxygen due to the higher temperatures, so watch for hard breathing. We also experienced higher levels of aggression, so keep an eye out for injured fish that may need to be separated from others (have to separate them within the tank so you don't risk spreading ich to other tanks).
10.31.2011
Detected ich on red top zebra
Added 7tbsp aquarium salt
Ran diatomic filter
Heat up to 86 degrees
11.3.2011
70% water change
Heat up to 87
11.4.2011
Added melafix, pimafix to try to mitigate infection resulting from higher aggression and some missing scales, fin nipping -- this was a mistake because this coated the fishs' gills and combined with the high temperature, caused evident difficulty breathing within an hour. Immediately changed water (60%) when noticed.
Heat to 86
Second 60% water change in the evening
Heat to 87, 300W heater added to enable higher temperatures for next steps
11.6.2011
60% water change
Heat to 89 for the day (we were home to observe them and make sure they were ok at this temperature, but it was no problem)
Heat to 86 in the evening
11.9.2011
Temperature to 84
11.10.2011
Temperature to 82
11.11.2011
Temperature to 80
After the ich fell off the infected fish, it did not reemerge.
10.31.2011
Detected ich on red top zebra
Added 7tbsp aquarium salt
Ran diatomic filter
Heat up to 86 degrees
11.3.2011
70% water change
Heat up to 87
11.4.2011
Added melafix, pimafix to try to mitigate infection resulting from higher aggression and some missing scales, fin nipping -- this was a mistake because this coated the fishs' gills and combined with the high temperature, caused evident difficulty breathing within an hour. Immediately changed water (60%) when noticed.
Heat to 86
Second 60% water change in the evening
Heat to 87, 300W heater added to enable higher temperatures for next steps
11.6.2011
60% water change
Heat to 89 for the day (we were home to observe them and make sure they were ok at this temperature, but it was no problem)
Heat to 86 in the evening
11.9.2011
Temperature to 84
11.10.2011
Temperature to 82
11.11.2011
Temperature to 80
After the ich fell off the infected fish, it did not reemerge.
Red Zebra Violence
7.22.2011
Beat up red zebra girl in 75 gallon tank let herself be netted. Moved to quarantine in 20Long. Gave melafix and erythromycin for infection.
7.26.2011
Moved second beat up red zebra girl to quarantine in 20Long. Gave melafix, pimafix, and erythromycin.
7.31.2011
Removed aggressor red zebra male from 75 gallon to 10 gallon holding tank. Eventually gave him away. Moved second beat up red zebra girl to 2.5 gallon.
8.3.2011
Second hurt red zebra girl died
9.15.2011
Red zebra male caught under rock, moved to 20Long for treatment of infection of his side from rock abrasion and/or other fish nipping him. Full course of erythromycin with melafix, pimafix, and antibiotic food.
9.24.2011
Re-added red zebras to tank
2.11.2011
Gave away remaining two surplus male red zebras
Beat up red zebra girl in 75 gallon tank let herself be netted. Moved to quarantine in 20Long. Gave melafix and erythromycin for infection.
7.26.2011
Moved second beat up red zebra girl to quarantine in 20Long. Gave melafix, pimafix, and erythromycin.
7.31.2011
Removed aggressor red zebra male from 75 gallon to 10 gallon holding tank. Eventually gave him away. Moved second beat up red zebra girl to 2.5 gallon.
8.3.2011
Second hurt red zebra girl died
9.15.2011
Red zebra male caught under rock, moved to 20Long for treatment of infection of his side from rock abrasion and/or other fish nipping him. Full course of erythromycin with melafix, pimafix, and antibiotic food.
9.24.2011
Re-added red zebras to tank
2.11.2011
Gave away remaining two surplus male red zebras
75 Gallon Livestock History
12.29.2010
Moved orange red zebra male ("Valencia") into 75 gallon
Moved red top zebra male ("Fins") into 75 gallon
12.30.2010
Added two female red fin borleyi from Dave's
Moved peakock back to 55 gallon
2.11.2011
Sold 2 red fin borleyi
5.13.2011
Found dead fish (dead awhile), can't identify what it was and remaining fish counts are correct -- must have been an extra in original shipment
5.29.2011
Added bristlenose pleco (medium size)
6.11.2011
Added bristlenose pleco (small)
6.25.2011
Smaller pleco dead
7.22.2011 (ACA sales)
Male labeotropheus fuelleborni won 3rd place in fish show
Sold 3 cyno hara males
Sold 1 female kenyi ("Zebra")
Sold 2 labeotropheus fuelleborni males
9.10.2011
Bought 2 female red zebras, added to quarantine
9.24.2011
Added 2 female red zebras to main tank
Bought 3 red top zebras, added to quarantine; one holding
10.23.2011
Added red top zebras to main tank
2.25.2012
Added 2 female red zebras to main tank from Dave's
Moved orange red zebra male ("Valencia") into 75 gallon
Moved red top zebra male ("Fins") into 75 gallon
12.30.2010
Added two female red fin borleyi from Dave's
Moved peakock back to 55 gallon
2.11.2011
Sold 2 red fin borleyi
5.13.2011
Found dead fish (dead awhile), can't identify what it was and remaining fish counts are correct -- must have been an extra in original shipment
5.29.2011
Added bristlenose pleco (medium size)
6.11.2011
Added bristlenose pleco (small)
6.25.2011
Smaller pleco dead
7.22.2011 (ACA sales)
Male labeotropheus fuelleborni won 3rd place in fish show
Sold 3 cyno hara males
Sold 1 female kenyi ("Zebra")
Sold 2 labeotropheus fuelleborni males
9.10.2011
Bought 2 female red zebras, added to quarantine
9.24.2011
Added 2 female red zebras to main tank
Bought 3 red top zebras, added to quarantine; one holding
10.23.2011
Added red top zebras to main tank
2.25.2012
Added 2 female red zebras to main tank from Dave's
75 Gallon Maintenance History
12.12.2010
Replaced Rena XP1 with Rena XP2
3.6.2011
Changed in 2 bags black sand to darken overall look (trying to make overall ambience less green looking)
10.16.2011
Changed bulb in UV filter
Early Dec 2011
Moved 75 gallon across room to paint and set up 110s; removed plants
Replaced Rena XP1 with Rena XP2
3.6.2011
Changed in 2 bags black sand to darken overall look (trying to make overall ambience less green looking)
10.16.2011
Changed bulb in UV filter
Early Dec 2011
Moved 75 gallon across room to paint and set up 110s; removed plants
75 Gallon Pre Vacation Filter Drama
Last Saturday as the cab pulled up to take us to the airport for a 10 day vacation, I hear Ethan's voice from under the 75g say,
"oh no." (Okay that is the polite rendition.)
Those are words you don't want to hear with a cab waiting outside.
Turns out one of our canisters had been leaking, probably for a couple days. We keep them in plastic tubs in the cabinet, and there was a gallon or two in there by then from whenever it had started.
Panic ensues.
We got it fixed within a half hour or so, got another cab, and made our flight with plenty of time (no pat-downs either!) -- but I realized a few things:
From now on I will always check all the hardware underneath before leaving. Preferably a couple hours before leaving.
Beware last-minute maintenance. We had changed water both Thursday night and Saturday morning in preparation for going a little longer between WCs. I'm not sure: this might have happened one way or the other, but Saturday morning maintenance might not have given us time to fix if something went wrong.
Looking at it today, it looks like the seal went bad and we have a bad valve too. It's a Rena canister and actually is probably still under warranty. We'll probably look into what it will take to fix it and engage in a little bit of trial and error; hoping not to have to spring for a new one but what price peace of mind.
Of course, everything turned out fine, but it was not fun at all while we rushed to fix it and wondering for 10 days if we really had! Whew.
Those are words you don't want to hear with a cab waiting outside.
Turns out one of our canisters had been leaking, probably for a couple days. We keep them in plastic tubs in the cabinet, and there was a gallon or two in there by then from whenever it had started.
Panic ensues.
We got it fixed within a half hour or so, got another cab, and made our flight with plenty of time (no pat-downs either!) -- but I realized a few things:
From now on I will always check all the hardware underneath before leaving. Preferably a couple hours before leaving.
Beware last-minute maintenance. We had changed water both Thursday night and Saturday morning in preparation for going a little longer between WCs. I'm not sure: this might have happened one way or the other, but Saturday morning maintenance might not have given us time to fix if something went wrong.
Looking at it today, it looks like the seal went bad and we have a bad valve too. It's a Rena canister and actually is probably still under warranty. We'll probably look into what it will take to fix it and engage in a little bit of trial and error; hoping not to have to spring for a new one but what price peace of mind.
Of course, everything turned out fine, but it was not fun at all while we rushed to fix it and wondering for 10 days if we really had! Whew.
75 Gallon Mbuna Cycle
10.24.2010
Initial fill
pH = 7.6
NH3 = 0.5ppm
NO2 = 0ppm
NO3 = 0-1ppm
Plant food
Buffer
Minerals
Nitrifying (75ml)
Ammonia (9 drops)
Clarifier
Double dose Prime
10.25.2010
pH = 7.4-7.6
NH3 > 0ppm
NO2 = 0ppm
NO3 = 5ppm
Ammonia 18 drops (round 1)
Buffer 6tsp
Ammonia 12 drops (round 2)
NH3 0.25ppm
Ammonia 9 drops (round 3)
Added AC50
10.26.2010
NH3 = 0.25ppm
NO2 = 0ppm
NO3 = 5ppm
36 drops ammonia
NH3 > 0.25ppm (10 min)
20 drops ammonia
NH3 < 0.5ppm (10 min)
20 drops ammonia
NH3 < 1ppm (10 min)
30 min developed a little
More after the jump...
Initial fill
pH = 7.6
NH3 = 0.5ppm
NO2 = 0ppm
NO3 = 0-1ppm
Plant food
Buffer
Minerals
Nitrifying (75ml)
Ammonia (9 drops)
Clarifier
Double dose Prime
10.25.2010
pH = 7.4-7.6
NH3 > 0ppm
NO2 = 0ppm
NO3 = 5ppm
Ammonia 18 drops (round 1)
Buffer 6tsp
Ammonia 12 drops (round 2)
NH3 0.25ppm
Ammonia 9 drops (round 3)
Added AC50
10.26.2010
NH3 = 0.25ppm
NO2 = 0ppm
NO3 = 5ppm
36 drops ammonia
NH3 > 0.25ppm (10 min)
20 drops ammonia
NH3 < 0.5ppm (10 min)
20 drops ammonia
NH3 < 1ppm (10 min)
30 min developed a little
More after the jump...
110 Gallon Tropheus: adding fish!
Friday, Feb 24th, 2012 -- added 30 tropheus bulu point cherry spot from AMS
110 Gallon Tropheus Setup
Thurs, Feb 2nd, 2012 -- set up sump, recirculating into itself; added bacteria
Sat, Feb 11th, 2012 -- set up full tank and sump with durso shipped with tank
Sat, Feb 18th, 2012 -- replumbed sump to herbie method, added 110ml bacteria, added media from existing 55 gallon and 75 gallon tanks; started seeing nitrite immediately
Tues, Feb 21st, 2012 -- 75% water change to decrease nitrite
Thurs, Feb 23rd, 2012 -- 75% water change to decrease nitrite
Fri, Feb 24th, 2012 afternoon -- 100% water change (40 gallons existing tank water and rest tap water)
Sat, Feb 11th, 2012 -- set up full tank and sump with durso shipped with tank
Sat, Feb 18th, 2012 -- replumbed sump to herbie method, added 110ml bacteria, added media from existing 55 gallon and 75 gallon tanks; started seeing nitrite immediately
Tues, Feb 21st, 2012 -- 75% water change to decrease nitrite
Thurs, Feb 23rd, 2012 -- 75% water change to decrease nitrite
Fri, Feb 24th, 2012 afternoon -- 100% water change (40 gallons existing tank water and rest tap water)
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